Azulejos & Attics: Lisbon’s Hidden Courtyards

Inês grew up above her grandfather’s azulejo restoration workshop and went on to study architectural history. Her walk through Mouraria and Graça goes where guidebooks legally cannot: private courtyards tiled in the 1700s, a stairwell painted like a chapel, a rooftop laundry with the best view in the city — all opened by owners she knows by name.

She reads buildings the way other people read faces, and she notices what you notice. No two walks are the same, because no two groups ask the same questions.