Sunrise at the Fish Docks, Then Cook the Catch

Twice a week Mateus buys fish where Lisbon’s chefs buy theirs — the early auction most visitors never hear about. You’ll go with him at sunrise, learn to judge a sea bass by its eyes, and watch him haggle in rapid-fire Portuguese (subtitles provided, roughly).

Then it’s back to a borrowed Alfama kitchen to cook the catch together: cataplana, grilled sardines, arroz de marisco — the menu is decided by the auction. Lunch is eaten at a long table with the door open, and neighbours have been known to wander in. They’re allowed.