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Seventh-generation mole cook from a Teotitlán weaving family
5 years hosting · Speaks Spanish, Zapotec, English · Replies within a day
Teotitlán del Valle has woven for two thousand years, and Xóchitl’s father’s family is part of that unbroken line. This day takes you to her cousins’ workshop, where wool is still carded by hand, dyed with cochineal insects, indigo and pomegranate, and woven on backstrap and pedal looms.
You’ll crush cochineal in your own palm and watch grey wool come out of the pot crimson — the moment the whole room gasps. Then you’ll weave a small piece to take home, badly at first, better by lunch. Lunch is with the family: squash blossom quesadillas and café de olla.
Part of every booking funds the village school’s weaving programme.
Santo Domingo church steps, Oaxaca, 8:30am
“Mole is not a dish, it’s a biography. Thirty ingredients and every one has a story in my family.” — Xóchitl Hernández
Watching grey wool come out of the pot crimson made the whole room gasp. Mine included.
My crooked little weaving is my favourite souvenir from a year of travel.
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